Tangier, Morocco – 2

Burj (Tower) Dar el-Baroud to the right.

In 1419 the Portuguese were the first in Europe to start methodical expeditions along West Africa’s coast under the sponsorship of prince Henry the Navigator, marking the beginnings of Europe’s “Age of Discoveries” (See; https://www.twobatsea.com/belem-portugal/). Tangier became Portugese territory in 1471 but in 1661 was passed on to the British as part of Portuguese princess Catherine of Bragaza’s dowry when marrying King Charles II. Tangier was subsequently occupied by Morocco (1684) and Spain (1912). It became an international city from 1924 onwards until finally absorbed by Morocco again in 1956.

This is what the “dowry” looked like in 1661. (Surviving copper engraving by Wenceslas Hollar 1661).

The walls surrounding the Medina and the Kasbah are largely constructed by the Portugese and in some area’s further improved by the British.

British gun (see Gibraltar) on “Terrasse Burj al-Hajoui”, facing the port.

We entered the medina but now from Bab el Bahr, an entrance close to Hotel Continental facing the bay, and walked a less trodden route, away from the main tourist shopping streets, looking for small scale home industry. Unfortunately these artisan workshops are slowly disappearing.

Kasbah Mosque.
Home delivery of cooking gas in the narrow streets.
Coppersmith at work. The man in the foreground is cleaning with sulphuric acid. The man in the doorway is polishing the finished product.
Leather belt making.
Eglise de la Medina.

In 1777 Sultan Sidi Mohammed includes “the Americans”, who were still fighting their Revolution, among Morocco’s trading partners, becoming the first head of state to recognise American independence.

The American Legation Museum commemorates the longstanding diplomatic relation between the two countries. A legation was a diplomatic representative office of lower rank than an embassy. Where an embassy was headed by an ambassador, who was a personal representative  of the King, a legation was headed by a minister who represents the government. The US was a republic, not a kingdom, and could therefore not have an embassy. Legations fell out of favor after World War II and were upgraded to embassies.

The building housing the legation then, and the museum now, was donated to the US government in 1821, who is to date still the legitimate owner.

Courtyard of the American Legation Museum.

Among the items on display are for instance an oil painting of George Washington, America’s first president, a condolence letter to the US government upon the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Three copper engravings of Tangier in 1661, ID’s of “American Protege’s”, and the role of the Legation during WWII.

Interior of the American Legation Museum.

Beside the “serious stuff” there is also some amusing material on display.

The Legation’s personnel was under strict orders not to accept any gifts from Moroccan officials. However in 1839 the Legation was presented a Lion and a Lioness as a gift. Mr. Carr, who worked for the Legation, told the commander of the troop that it was impossible to receive the animals. “The law of my country forbids it”. “The Lions are not for you Mr. Carr but for your Government”. “The President, the head of my Government also has not the power to receive them”. “The Sultan is aware of this. They are not for your President but for your Congress”. “Congress has resolved not to receive any presents. It is part of the Constitution and superior to Congress itself”. “Who made the Constitution?”. Mr. Carr replied; “The People”.

The commander then said: “The Emperor desires them to be presented to the people as a present. I am ordered to deliver them to you, it will cost me my head if I disobey. I shall leave them in the street”.

Upon seeing that preparations were made to release the lions, Mr Carr surrendered and had the lions locked away in the Legation. His troubles wouldn’t end there. Rumour had it that another delegation was on its way with horses.

1839 Cartoon about the “Lion incident”. (POTUS = President Of The U.S.).

In 1871 Morocco was surrounded by superpowers waiting to gobble it up; France – Spain and Great Britain. The Sultan sought a military alliance with the U.S……..”that he would be wiling to accept an American protectorate”. The U.S., preoccupied with post Civil War reconstruction, declined the offer. This led to a cartoon in a Parisian newspaper.

Awesome your Majesty…..here are the Spanish coming…..I think they will meet your desires, however to inspire them for the show…….let’s deploy your august parasol!
Leave me alone, Belboul, with my Pare-a-sol……..right now, I’d rather have a Pare-a-ball.

That evening we followed the advice of the marina staff and went for dinner in one of the restaurants in the fishing harbour. (Port de Peche). It was a bit of a bummer. EVERYTHING (shrimp – squid – sole – sardines – mullet – sea bream) was thrown in the frying pan. The fish were small and surprisingly for a fishing harbour; not fresh!

The mess after dinner.

To be continued……..

1 thought on “Tangier, Morocco – 2”

  1. Looks like you both are in the right place for troubled time. Enjoy and thank you for the read.

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