Autumn Cruise 2021, Myra – Demre – Simena

We wanted to visit ancient Myra, one of the most important cities of Lycia and rented a car to drive East along the coast. In 2005 the place was renamed to Demre to resemble the name of the Demre river, the source of the fertile soil. When looking at Demre in Google Earth you see one big silver patch caused by the reflection of the greenhouses.

Driving down the mountain slope onto the plain where every piece of the fertile land is covered by greenhouses.

Demre is the fruit and vegetable basket for Antalya province. The villages of Demre grow pomegranates and citrus fruits and a large variety of fruits and vegetables all year round in greenhouses. 

The majority of people living in Myra were Christian Greeks. In 1923 this majority was deported to Greece as part of the population exchange between Greece and Turkey. The abandoned Greek villages in the region are a striking reminder of this exodus. See our visit to Kayakoy.

The ruins of the Lycian and Roman town are mostly covered by 4 to 9 meters alluvial silts from the river and surrounding mountains. Let’s have a look at the sites that are excavated, starting with the Roman theater.

The largest surviving artefact is the Roman theater which is built on top of the earlier and much smaller Greek theater. Note the Acropolis (district on top of a hill) which is largely destroyed and the necropolis (city of the dead).
The theater with a seating capacity of over 10,000 is one of the largest in the area. The scaene (stage wall) was three stories high.
The cavea (horseshoe shaped seating rows) are placed on two-story vaulted galleries on the W- and E side of the hill.
The stone carving of the frieze (ornamental strip on top of wall under roof) are of unrivalled quality.

The ocean necropolis (city of the deaths) to the W of the theater is designed as a hill side city with narrow pathways and stairs and the tombs resemble small temples. There is nothing to be seen inside these tombs anymore.

The rock tombes are dated the 4th century BC. 23 graves are inscribed, 13 of them are Lycian and 10 are Greek.

The riverside necropolis, to the East of the Theater and East of the Acropolis is less frequented because it is more difficult to get to. Although this necropolis is not as impressive from the outside, it is actually more interesting since there are a few reliefs and paintings still visible inside some of the tombs.

Painted reclining man relief.
Seated woman and children relief.

Next is a visit to the Church of Saint Nicholas. 

Nicholas is not from Spain as we are made to believe in the Netherlands, but he was born in Patara, the capital of Lycia and present day Gelemis, in the late 270 AD and is of Greek descent. He became bischop of Myra and built a reputation with the miracles he performed. One of those miracles (the most eery one) was the resurrection of three children, who had been murdered and pickled in brine by a butcher planning to sell them as pork during a famine. He took responsibility for the protection of children, seamen, travelers and the poor. He died on Dec 6, 343 in Myra where he was buried. His death is celebrated every year as Saint Nicholas holiday.

After Nicholas's death, the St. Nicholas Church was built in Myra under the orders of Theodosius II over the site of the church where he had served as bishop, and his remains were moved to a sarcophagus inside that church. The church is under restoration. The lower half was completely buried in silt.

Canonised after his death Nicholas became patron saint of Greece and Russia and he ranks amongst the most important saints in orthodox christianity. Many churches in port cities are built dedicated to him.

Saint Nicholas in Bisschop attire, mural painting in the Demre church.
Interior of the church.
This is the actual sarcophagus. In 1087, during the conquest by the Muslim Seljuk Turks, a group of merchants from the Italian city of Bari removed the major bones of Nicholas's skeleton from his sarcophagus and brought them to their hometown, where they are now enshrined in the Basilica di San Nicola. This sarcophagus is visited by thousands of Russian pilgrims each year.
Russian Csar Nicholas I financed the restoration of the church in 1862 and donated the tablet on display in the niche reading: "Oh measure of faith and image of humility,.......etc...... Oh father Bischop Nicholas, pray Christ God for the salvation of our souls."
Statue of Saint Nicholas in Demre.
We leave Demre for Simena and have a glimpse at Mandrake, the silted up ancient port of Myra, on the far end to the left.

Touristic Kaleköy (literally castle village) or ancient Simena is a small village facing Kekova island. It is popular with yotti’s because of the abundant and well protected anchorages

Kaleköy in one picture. The sarcophagus in the water is a photographers favourite. The small water front is loaded with restaurants and souvenir shops and on top of the hill the ruins of a Byzantine castle. The water is less than a meter deep so it was easy to walk out to make this photo.
Climbing our way up between the souvenir shops to the castle
One of the bays as seen from the castle. Note the "stairs" in the right lower corner. This is actually the semi circular seating arrangement of a small (400 seat) theater within the walls of the castle. Can you find the sarcophagus? (left of the middle).
The Byzantines built this fort in the middle ages long after Lycia ceased to exists, to fight the pirates that nested in the many anchorages and it is easy to see why.

Who would built a sarcophagus in the water? Well……….nobody did. Simena is also known as “the sunken city” and large parts of the area sank under water after a few earthquakes.

Türkiye is situated on the fault-line where the African and Eurasian tectonic plates collide, resulting in significant earthquakes, tsunamis and vertical displacement. Many of the ancient cities we visit were damaged or destroyed by earthquakes especially around 500 – 600 AD. The cities were then abandoned because they could no longer be defended or the costs for reconstruction was too high.

Liza looking South over Oludeniz towards Kekova island. In the right upper corner you can see a tourist boat going to Dolichiste, better knows as the "underwater city".
The sunken city of Dolichiste.
Like other Lycian towns along the coast, Simena thrived on the production of Royal Purple (or Tyrian dye), which is gleaned from murex snails and said to have cost 20 times its weight in gold. It would take 12.000 snails to produce 1.4 grams of dye. The shells where used to make chalk as a binder for concrete.
Back in Kas we were just in time to witnes the award ceremony of the international free-diving contest. Salient detail: The winner with a depth of 101 meters was Omar from the UAE, the place were we used to live for 20 years.
Yogurt ice-making Türkish style. The yogurt is spread on a cold plate like a pancake. With a spatula they scrape the ice and put it in a cup.

From Kas we slowly sail back to Marmaris with a few more stops along the way, but that is for a next post. Thank you again for making it this far. Warm regards Liza and Frits.