Autumn Cruise 2021, Göcek and back to Marmaris

The return trip to Marmaris with anchorages numbered 1 t/m 5

We had a booking for a berth in Kas marina for one week only and on Wed Oct 06 at check-out time (12pm) we had to leave. There was not enough wind to fill the sails so we motored to the nearest anchorage to wait for the breeze to pick up.

At anchor in Yesilkoy bay (1), surrounded by day-tripper boats from Kas and nearby Kekova. Most of them left by afternoon end, leaving a peaceful bay with sandy shores for those who stayed for the night. Time for a dip to cool ourselves and a shower to rinse off the salt water.

At sunrise the following morning we headed 30 Nm further West under sail to our next anchorage (2). The wind was just enough to keep the boat moving at 3 to 4 kts, making for a very relaxed day on the water.

The anchorage at Akvarium Koya (2) is very small. The local restaurant has laid fixed moorings to accommodate more boats since you do not swing around your own (long) anchor chain. Staying at a mooring is free, provided you eat in their restaurant.

The restaurant Karacaören (roe deer ruins) is THE reason to anchor here. The restaurant is run by a Dutch – Türkish family. A few children, cats and dogs roam the restaurant that also serves as a small supermarket for fresh produce. The atmosphere is lively but relaxed and cozy.

The man of the house and his kitchen. EVERYTHING is cooked – grilled (to the left) or baked in this oven. The food being served is fresh, honest, and of good quality, nothing fancy but tasty, and the laid back setting makes for an experience commensurate with the cruising life style.

After dinner we were given a free homemade bread and one of the family members ferried us back to our boat. Looking up to the restaurant from the small pontoon.
The following morning, a happy captain on his boat. Karacaören in the background.

The sailing conditions during the 14 Nm trip to Göcek (3) where perfect for a video. A close reach in 10 knots true Westerlies and calm waters. The boat is remarkably fast with a length of 38 foot and a displacement of 11 tons.

Göcek bay is large and offers numerous well protected anchorages. Many boats stay here weeks on end, attracted by the clear waters, cozy bays and restaurants.

As you can imagine, such a place is a magnet for yachts and it can take a while before “your” perfect anchorage comes available. The first night we stayed in Seagull Bay recognisable by the white stone image of a seagull on its shore.

The anchorage was quiet. Too quiet. The restaurant looked unappetising. Too unappetising. There was little to do. Too little to do.

The next day, after a few boats left, our perfect spot became available in Wall Bay. As the name suggests, the remnants of a medieval city wall are visible along the SE shore of the bay. We would stay here for a few days.

In the NW corner was a very good restaurant "Adaia" with two substantial pontoons. Adaia stays open during winter and some die-hard liveaboards winter in the mini-marina.

During the summer months Migros circles the bay twice a week with a floating supermarket. Very convenient for your grocery shopping. The “poo-boat” also frequents the bay and comes alongside to pump-out your black-water tank to keep the waters in the bay clean and safe.

Göcek is located on the Western border of the ancient kingdom of Lycia and there is a well signposted hiking trail (540 km) along the Lycian coast all the way to Antalya. All the locations that we visited during this Autumn cruise are situated along this trail.

So we take out our hiking shoes, fill a daypack with lunch and water, and explore the area around our anchorage. The first stop is Hamam Kuyo, the adjacent cove.

The first place of interest is this sunken Roman bath. Some tourist information claim that Cleopatra bathed here, and although Cleopatra and Mark Anthony, responsible for the Eastern part of the Roman empire, traveled Turkey extensively together, there is no factual proof to confirm, nor to deny, this statement.

We follow the well marked trail up the hill and a good hour later we arrive at the ruins of the ancient city of Lydae.
Lydae is a well known city during Roman Byzantines imperial times but so far no restoration works have been attempted, probably because the location is hard to access for large groups of tourists (no roads).
Enjoying the view whilst eating our lunch.
The best preserved buildings were two water cisterns. This one still had feeding "channels" from the catchment area's.
Inside a cistern.
On the way back to the boat we made a detour to the beach on the South side of the isthmus. The boat is anchored to the North. You can only anchor on the Southside during very calm weather.
A few days later we made an overnight stop in Ekincik (4).

We anchored in the right hand corner (as seen on the above photo) next to a nice catamaran. The not so nice owner scolded at us that we were too close and had to move. We initially ignored his calls. Upon entering the bay we had seen a yacht-race going on and we suddenly realised that all those yachts would come to “our” side of the bay since the only jetty and a small sailing club were located there. THAT would cause chaos, and THAT made us decide to re-anchor further to the left. We dinghied to the T-jetty at dusk and met the owner in the restaurant who, now friendly, thanked us for re-anchoring. We had a friendly chat and took our seats without explaining why we moved. Back to our boat after dinner we saw him already on the bow of his catamaran scolding away the returning yachts. He was still on deck when we took to our bunks. I believe this is what they call “Karma”?

By mid October we were back in the marina in Marmaris (5) and on 22 Dec 2021 the new owner took possession of our beloved boat that we had owned for 22 years.

We are continuing our cruising life on our catamaran SV TWO B for the years to come.

Thank you for reading our blog and until next time. Liza and Frits.