Kefalonia, Greece, Part 1.

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On 01 Jul 2023, we hopped from Ithaka to the neighbouring island of Kefalonia, the largest and perhaps the most varied of the Ionian islands. Upon entering the bay of Fiskardo at the Northern tip of the island we passed the now defunct Venetian lighthouse, and its modern replacement.

Fiskardo's Venetian light house to the left.

July, and the tourist season had clearly begun. The anchorage was filled with charter-boats and flotilla’s making it difficult to find a suitable mooring spot. The common way to anchor is the so called MED mooring. You drop your anchor a few boat-lengths in front of the location where you’re going to park your boat and then reverse stern to shore. At the desired location, Liza then jumps in the water and swims two floating lines to a suitable attachment point (left and right) whilst Frits keeps the boat in place using the engines and hauls in the lines.

You get the idea.
After a quick shower we took our "Ferrari" to shore and clambered up the rocks and the wall to explore this picturesque town.
The town quay filled with local boats and waterfront restaurants against Venetian architecture.
All tables full!! and the two restaurants that we selected couldn't seat us so we made a reservation for the following day.
The next evening we could park our Ferrari next to the restaurant.
Lovely food and wine at Fishcardo Seafood restaurant.
Beside the history, this is what the Med is famous for; long, dry and warm evenings, restaurants at the waterfronts and a wide variety of excellent cuisine.
This tanker passed every day, selling water to the boaters.
We left busteling Fiscardo for tranquil Assos on the West coast.
Entering Ormos Assos with the small hamlet to the left and a headland with a Venetian castle on top, to the right.
Anchoring proved a bit more difficult than expected. Only after the third attempt were we satisfied with the holding of our anchor. Photo taken from the hamlet looking towards the castle ruins.

The following morning we would hike up the hill to explore the castle ruins, providing a beautiful view of the surroundings. The Venetian Castle of Assos was constructed in the 16th century on top of four bastions, with two more being added later. Its main purpose was to protect the island from pirates and the Ottomans. Initially, it housed around 200 homes and 64 buildings.

Main entrance.

Its outside walls escaped the devastating fate of most of the buildings in Kefalonia cause by the great earthquake of 1953.

Main entrance seen from the inside.

After 1920, the castle grounds served as a prison. It was notoriously inescapable since the fortress lies 155 meters above the sea, surrounded by very high and steep cliffs.

Abandoned prison buildings.

The residents abandoned the complex after the earthquake and the prison got closed. Besides the wall, abandoned prison buildings and a church, nothing but rubble is left of the once existing structures.

Church inside the castle grounds.

We left the castle via the South gate and headed back to Assos village Square.

A good meal and a very welcome drink after another (sweaty)day worth living.

We sailed back along the Northern tip of the island and then went further South to Eufimia. It used to be the main port for the island but was abandoned after the earthquake and serves now as a marina.

The crowded town quay of Eufemia.
The crowded anchorage.

When you live on a boat you are dependent on the weather for your safety and your comfort. “Is the boat safe” is de deciding factor when selecting an anchorage. There was a major storm forecasted for the coming days and this anchorage was too crowded to our liking. We knew that more boats would come in to seek shelter. Our main concerns is dragging our anchor. Our second concern is others dragging their anchor into us! So we decided to go elsewhere.

Early morning summer sun over the anchorage creating warm colours.

Early morning we could weigh anchor only after asking the boat in front of us to move since he was floating on top of our hook. Luckily some crew were awake. After a long day sail we anchored in the Northern tip of Argostoli bay which is surrounded by mountains and has a sandy bottom with excellent hold. To our surprise there were only three other boat anchored nearby. Granted; there is nothing to see (hence no photo’s), there are no taverna’s, there is a fish farm making the water murky, so why come here, but who cares. With the predicted NW storm this bay was by far the best protected anchorage.

We had 35 knots over the boat, which is windforce 8 or a gale, despite being sheltered by mountains. When speaking to boaters later in Argostoli, downwind from us, they measured 50+ knots which is force 9 or a strong gale and anchors dragging.

After the storm cleared we headed to the anchorage in front of Argostoli passing the lighthouse of Saint Theodori built on an artificial peninsula in 1828 when the island was under British rule. It was rebuild after the earthquake and remains functional, shining its light 5 Nm out to sea.

We dropped anchor on the South side of the bay, in front of the public market and far from the ferry dock. Two ferries shuttle back and forth to Lixouri, every 30 minutes.
Great atmosphere at Vallianou Square, the town's central square surrounded by restaurants, ice cream parlours and coffee houses, with mainly Greek clientele. The shopping street to the South is lined with stylish boutiques and cafes.
This obelisk, called Kolona, exists since 1813 and was the Kefalonian symbol of gratitude to Great Britain. The obelisk had a plaque with the inscription "To the glory of the British Empire", which was mysteriously removed in 1865 when the Greeks regained control of the island.
Ekklisia Panagia, with its beautiful bell tower and............
...........its richly decorated interior.
What is there to see?
A loggerhead turtle. This area in the Ionian hosts the largest Mediterranean nesting for this species. We see them often, also when sailing.
Twice a week a (different) cruise ship docks in Argostoli. The tourists off the ship wandering around the waterfront a bit lost for something to do, at least those who have not embarked on the coach for an island tour.

Drogarati cave, close to Sami, is a popular stop for island coach tours, and is formed by tectonic movement in this earthquake prone area. It was discovered 300 years ago after a strong earthquake caused a collapse that revealed the cave’s entrance. The cave is small but colourful so we hopped early morning in a rental car to arrive before the coaches do.

Descending towards the cave entrance.
The first chamber.
Passage way to second chamber.
The second chamber.
We had seen it all in 15 minutes but it is definitely worth the visit.

On route to Sami we passed the private Nautical Museum, exhibiting 24 wooden boat models built in great detail by the passionate owner Sotiris Markatos. 

The model of Odysseus' ship that he sailed during his 10 year adventurous return from Troy was particularly of interest to us. The actual vessel was about 24 meters long. The model is based on Homer's writings and the illustration on the amphora pictured below.
Odysseus, bound to the mast of his ship, listens to the deadly song of the Sirens. One of the bird-bodied maidens casts herself into the sea in despair at being foiled by the hero. (Replica. Original in British Museum).
Also interesting was the model of this warship used in the Battle of Salamis against the Persians. Note the evolution against Odyseus' 800 year older vessel. The rows with oars-men increase to three, hence the name trireem. The bow was reinforced with a bronze ram. The upper deck was closed to carry troops for invading enemy ships. The top row of oars-men was now fully protected against the deadly arrows of archers. The vessel carried two masts.
A coffee break in Sami, that used to be an ancient port. Homer refers to Sami as "Sami, the forested Zakynthos and Doulichio". (Doulichio is modern day Ithaka).

We continue to Orealios vine-yards and the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos but that is for another blog.

Thank you for reading our stories, Liza and Frits.