Leaving Greece for the Strait of Messina.

It was time to leave Greece and to go further West. We made a quick stop in Corfu town to wait for favourable winds to cross to Italy. The Fortress and the old town are the main attractions.

Anchored just South of Corfu town in the Bay of Garitsa.

Around 550 AD the inhabitants of the area around what is now the old fort, began moving to the naturally-fortified peninsula with its two peaks, to protect themselves against barbarian incursions, after the collaps of the Roman empire.

The Fortress with two hills as seen from the anchorage.

The Byzantines walled the peninsula, built towers on both peaks and developed the island into Koryfo city, (Koryfo = peak) a name that gradually changed to Corfou/Corfu. The settlement west of the peninsula, the “Xopoli” (outer city), began to grow at the same time as Koryfo at the site of the modern city.

The bridge and the only entrance to the fort.
The sea-moat, or contrafosa, between the fort (right) and the mainland (left).
Liza in front of the main entrance. There is a small Byzantine museum in a building behind the English Army Baracks.
Byzantine wall paintings and floor mosaics.

The Venetians (1386 – 1797) took possession of Corfu for its strategic and commercial importance. The current fortifications were built by the Venetians and incorporated heavy artillery into the defence systems to withstand Ottoman attacks. The peninsula was separated from the island itself through the construction that sea moat, the so-called contrafossa, pictured before.

Mandraki Tower with gun foundations (left) and the sea-side hill to the right.
The Venetian clock tower in front of the land-side hill.

During the period of English rule (1814-1864), large-scale interventions were made at the site with the construction of new buildings, mostly military in character. During World War II, bombing destroyed important Venetian buildings such as the palace of the Provveditore (Superintendent).

Barracks for English officers, now housing the Department of Music Studies of the lonian University.
The highest point of the island fortress.
The old English hospital, abandoned in 1985.
The British built the church of Saint John in 1840 to meet the religious needs of the British Garrison stationed in the fort. When the British withdrew in 1864 following the Union with Greece, the Anglican church was converted into Orthodox.
Interior of the church. Today, the Divine Liturgy is performed twice a year. Temporary exhibitions as well as musical and other events are also held in the church.

Corfu island and its capital are the main tourist destination of the Ionian islands. Corfu has a long musical, theatrical, and operatic tradition. You can find world-class museums, fortresses and restaurants and a blend of Venetian, French and British architecture. However we have been sailing Greece for 5 months now and there comes a time that you simply have to leave because there is so much more to explore on our beautiful planet, hence our short stay for only two nights.

Corfu Street Performer. The guy has a tiny microphone on his face and is singing along with a backing track.

Tourist crowds as far as you can see......everywhere.
Excellent dinner and wine at Anthos restaurant.
Cartoon artist. The image of her boyfriend already finished.
The moderate Northerly wind on Sep 02 promised good sailing conditions so we decided to leave early morning for Santa Maria de Leuca in Italy.
Anchor up at the dawn of day.

Sailing impression halfway from Corfu to Punta Meliso, the heel of Italy’s boot.

Lighthouse at Punta Meliso on the approach to the anchorage.
Safely at anchor at dusk, just outside the fishing port / marina.
Santa Maria di Leuca as seen from the boat.

The following day would bring stronger winds (20 – 25 knots) from the North, promising exhilarating sailing conditions to cross the open water from Punta Meliso to Capo Rizzuto. The anchorage in the bay West of Capo Rizzuto would offer good protection against the Northerly storm that was forecasted later in the week. So we stayed only one night in Santa Maria di Leuca and pressed on the following morning, to arrive in the bay before the storm.

It turned out to be a fantastic sail, with a first reef in the main and full headsail.

Exhilarating sailing from Punta Meliso to Capo Rizzuto.

Dropping anchor at dusk in front of Spiaggia Selene, West of the cape Rizzuto
The West side of the bay was spoiled by open air burning of waste. Note the irony of the "environmentally friendly" windmills in the background.

We stayed for three nights, waiting for the storm to pass and on Sep 6 the weather looked acceptable to continue our journey with the winds forecasted to subside further.

Weather picture when we left our anchorage (green dot) with the winds expected to decrease.

We sail conservative and make sure not to be over-canvassed, to not put too much strain on the boat and on ourselves. We left the anchorage with a second reef in the main and the headsail partly furled.

The wind was initially as forecasted and as expected, the sea was quite rough from the left over swell after the storm. The problem was however that the wind was not easing but slowly increasing. Thunderstorms were building on the horizon and approaching. In the video below you can see the confused sea-state. Bear in mind that the waves are higher than what it looks on video. You can also notice that the autopilot has more difficulty to keep the boat on course.

We now had 30 knots over deck and started preparations for our third reef when we heard a gale warning over the radio. Already a bit out of our comfort zone we weighed our options. Sailing closer to shore would decrease the wind a bit and we could be in the safety of Marina Roccella within the next hour. So we decided not to press on and to head for shelter. The tranquility that fell over the boat when in the lee of the high marina walls was a welcome relief for our souls. 

The harbour master jokingly said that they always reserve one berth for idiots that go out sailing with this kind of weather.

Photo of the marina entrance the day after. The breaking waves over the shallows need to be given a wide berth. The harbour master will "talk you in".
This food truck was permanently stationed in the marina and served a variety of "bowls" full of fresh, healthy and yummy stuf. Drinks are sugar and alcohol free.
In the distance we saw this hill-top fortification. It seems that every hill around the MED has some sort of ancient or medieval fortress, BUT we have never seen one in Italy yet, so we jump on the bikes to go for a visit.
Along the scenic climb we pass this Santuario Madonna delle Grazie, built by Captain Busceni in the 16th century as thanks for him and his fleet surviving a violent storm.
Interior of the sanctuary.
Tore die Pizzofalcone, built in the 14th century as part of the fortifications against Barbar raids out of North Africa. There are underground tunnels that connected anti-aircraft battle stations in WWII.
View from the tower of the castle that is partly restored and inhabited by the Carafa family. Unfortunately we could not enter the premisses.
View of the other side of the Castle, and it looks inhabited. Photo from internet.
The fishing port / marina as seen from the tower.
Time for a refreshment on Piazza San Vittorio. (Liza sitting under the tree).
An Italian WWII gun in front of the Monumento ai Caduti. (War Memorial).
Dock side bike maintenance.
Time to sail further West along the Southern Calabrian coast towards the Messina strait. Calabria Province is the poorer part of South-Italy. We see a few yachts washed up on shore. These boats are often stolen by drug-cartels and after delivery are deliberately wrecked or left behind on the beaches.
Every cruiser who passes Capo Dell'Armi makes this iconic photo of the lighthouse and the ingeniously constructed coastal highway.
Finally arriving in the Messina strait where we will wait for the tides and wind to cross to the North into the Tyrrhenian Sea, North of Sicily.
TWO B anchored off the beach of Reggio Calabria, Messina. Photo by Kim Wells of SV No Rush, who were anchored next to us, and heading in the same direction.

Thank you for reading our stories and see you next time when we visit the Aeolian Islands, also called Lipari islands.

Regards, Liza and Frits.

4 thoughts on “Leaving Greece for the Strait of Messina.”

  1. Hello Frits and Liza,
    Many thanks again for sharing your traveling experiences again. Next to the history stories I really enjoy the videos and to read about your personal experiences.
    Looking forward to read more next time.
    Lieve groetjes
    Loek

    1. Getting idea’s Liz? Thanks for reading and commenting on our stories. Rgds to Colin.
      Liza and Frits.

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