La Linea de la Conception

In Cadiz we assessed the situation with Newpoint Moverbo the Dutch dealer of our boat. If we stayed in Cadiz waiting for the necessary parts to make the escape hatches safe to sail, we would not be able to leave Europe before the deadline of March 05, 2020. As a consequence we would become VAT liable. If we would move on and the hatches would fail then we would not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

The UK formally left the EU on 31 Jan 2020 and are in “transition period” so the legislation still has to be sorted. However the Dutch tax authorities accepted to clear the boat out of the EU if we could make it to Gibraltar. That is only 150 nm from Cadiz and was an acceptable risk.

After checking the escape hatches (again) we were off to Gibraltar on Feb 09, 2020. The passage required careful planning since both the current and the wind need to be going East to have an enjoyable passage. All went well and we entered Gibraltar bay at the turn of the tide. Couldn’t have been better.

Bussy shipping in the Gibraltar strait. Morocco in the background.

On route to La Linea – Gibraltar we pas Europe’s most Southern city, Tarifa, that got its name from a Moorish commander Tarif ibn Malik who landed there on a recognisance mission in 710 AD in preparation for the Muslim conquest of Hispania in 711. (View https://www.twobatsea.com/history-of-iberian-peninsula/)

Tarifa, Europe’s most Southerly town. Lighthouse to the right.

The Straight is only 9nm or 15km wide and is not only a busy shipping area. It is a popular route for smugglers and human traffickers between North-Africa and Europe. We were “checked” by high speed police boats twice that day.

Entering Gibraltar bay with “The Rock” in the background.

Since none of the Gibraltar marina’s had a slip available to berth a catamaran we resorted to the (much cheaper) Alcaidesa marina in La Linea, just North of Gibraltar. To get there we have to cross Gibraltar waters.

After the unsuccessful 1727 siege of Gibraltar by the Spanish the latter began the construction of a line of fortifications, the “Contravallation Line” or “La Línea de Gibraltar” thus eventually giving rise to the town La Línea De La Concepción. This would isolate the British outpost from the Spanish mainland. More of that in a future post about Gibraltar.

The fortifications, in red, top right, to isolate Gibraltar.

Below foto is taken from the top of the rock facing North with La Linea North of the Gibraltar air-strip. Marina Alcaidesa is to the left of La Linea. In the middle the 2 time 2 lane road crossing the airstrip going in and out of Gibraltar.

La Linea seen from the Rock.

To celebrate our safe arrival and the fact that we were now VAT exempt we went for dinner in La Chacra, the #1 restaurant according to Tripadvisor.

Guests lining up for a seat in this famous steakhouse.
Carefully pouring our glass of Ribera red wine.
Waiting outside but………………with a glass of wine in hand.

The wait was well worth it. Absolutely delicious well aged steak. Unrefined and rough but juicy, tender, high quality and tasty.

The best steak in the area.

To get from La Linea in and out of Gibraltar you have to cross the runway of a MILITARY airport that is also used for civil aviation service. Since the public has access to the runway and therefore could compromise or sabotage its operations, the runway has to be inspected and swept clean before every take off or landing.

Yellow inspection car witha “broom” attached to the back of the car.

It is rather funny to observe the whole ritual of freeing the landing strip of vehicles and pedestrians by police with sirens, loud announcements, red flashing lights, barriers closing, and putting up various chains across walkways and bicycle paths. Once a plane has past, the police return to their barracks and civilians rush across the runway again. At the next siren signal the circus starts all over.

Plane just landed and is going to cross the highway.

La Linea is providing Gibraltar with food and services. The city is wealthy with many “Linenses” working in Gibraltar, busing across the border on foldable E-scooters that they keep under their office desk. Very convenient but off course forbidden in over-regulated Netherlands.

The Santuario de la Inmaculada Conception at the Plaza de la Iglesia.
Lively and well stocked indoor “wet” market. (Mercado Municipal).
Staring at the rock over a drink before going to sleep.

Now it was waiting for the parts to arrive, but we spend our time well with several visits to the rock and a multiple day visit to Sevilla. See upcoming posts.