Exploring Gran Canaria: Markets, History, and Culture

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Hello friends. Thank you for tuning in into this blog. In the previous story we explored Lanzarote, Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria with our family who have returned to the Netherlands after a two weeks visit. We will stay in Gran Canaria for a few more months to enjoy this beautiful island and to prepare the boat and ourselves for the upcoming Atlantic crossing.

We visit Mercado de Vegueta in the historic centre of Las Palmas. Dating back to the mid-1800s, it is the oldest market in the Canaries and originally built to solve food supply issues and to centralise trade in the islands.
It is less of a touristy place and more of a real working market where, next to fresh local produce, you can also find tapas-style spots and small eateries.
Of course we will not let this opportunity go to waste.....
......to spoil our pallets!! Yummy.
We befriended a lovely Filipino family who are living in Las Palmas since long and have their own business there. Especially Liza (not surprisingly) became very close to Leonila.
They are importing Asian foodstuff into the Canaries and also provide remittance service to the Philippines.
The Castle of La Luz began its life in 1478 as a wooden tower on a rocky islet, that was isolated at high tide, North of the harbour of Las Palmas. In 1494 a stone fortress was built to improves the defences against pirate attacks. It got further expanded over the years.
In 1595, it withstood an assault led by the English privateer Francis Drake. However, four years later, in 1599, it was captured, looted, and burned by a Dutch fleet commanded by Pieter van der Does. Restoration efforts began shortly thereafter in 1601 to repair the damage sustained during that attack.
The parade ground is the heart of the Castle, since it is the only point that provides access to the inner chambers. An enemy, trapped in this small space, faced a small piece of artillery opposite the gate, situated behind the inverted keyhole embrasure (below left).
In 2014 the Castle reopened as a modern museum space. The medieval inner layers of construction are cleverly integrated in the modern interior. The abstract sculptures are from the local sculptor Martín Chirino
The Mercado del Puerto is an elegant example of 19th century iron architecture, linked to the same school as the Eiffel Tower.
It has evolved from a traditional food market into a vibrant "gastromarket" with 22 Cuban, Italian and local gastrobars.
What better place than here to enjoy lunch?
Beautiful Playa de las Alcaravaneras is actually within the harbour premisses! The marina is at the far end behind the breakwater, along the boulevard.
These 5 ultra-deepwater dill-ships are "cold-stacked" in the harbour since 2022 because of market oversupply. "Cold-stacked" means "mothballed" with minimal crew. Las Palmas is a logical choice since it is close to West Africa where these ships were deployed and there are well established repair / supply facilities.
Balancing boat-work and exploring. Installing a burglary alarm on the boat since this annoyance is more prevalent in our future cruising grounds. The black box is the control unit.
The picturesque town of Teror is called "Jewel of the North" for its architecture, history and setting.
After parking the car we walk up the "water steps" or Calle de la Diputacion.
This water work has no historical significance and is nothing more than a fountain where the water is pumped around (if they turn the switch that is), unlike the real water steps in Firgas, later in this story.
On top of the steps we find the old townhouse.
Teror has a well preserved town centre that is under monument protection. Colourful houses and wooden balconies line the main road leading to Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pino.
Teror's heart is the Basilica dedicated to the Virgin of the Pine. Legend has it that in 1481 she appeared in a pine tree on the spot where the Basilica is now built.
The basilica's beautiful interior with gilded, wood carved, altar.
For the highlight of the Basilica we need to enter into the camarin via the right nave.
The Virgin of the Pine in a beautiful, solid silver altar. All the votive jewels and regalia that adorned the Virgin and Child were pried off and stolen in 1975. The robbery is not solved until today.
A big surprise to find relics of a formula 1 driver in the Basilica's small museum. Fernando Alfonso visited the basilica, and donated or lent personal items for display to honour the town's patron Saint and his family ties to Gran Canaria.
Beautiful view down to Las Palmas port when we left Teror for Firgas.
Locals call it "Villa del Agua" because of its abundant springs and watercourses. The bottled water brand "Agua de Firgas" started here in 1930. This waterfall is spring fed, although there are pumps installed to keep the water flowing in the dry season.
On the righthand side of the Paseo de Gran Canaria, where the waterfall flows down, are blue-and-yellow tiled benches with ceramic coats of arms representing each Gran Canaria municipality. Another surprise awaits us on top of these stairs:
The "Paseo de Canarias".
Each of the Canary islands is depicted with its coat of arms, a sculptured image of the island and its typical landscape.
The Acequia Real de la Heredad de Aguas de Firgas y Arucas (15th- 16th centures) runs under the town of Firgas, where it is brought to the surface, to service washhouses (above), water troughs, mills, reservoirs and aqueducts.
The channel feeds the Firgas watermill and Gofio Museum.
The entrance into the watermill.
Gofio is an ancient Canarian flour, made from wheat or barley, BUT roasted over wood fire before being ground. It has a nutty-smoky taste and a long shelf life, the latter making it popular amongst sailors.
Through the glass window in the floor you can see the horizontal water turbine wheel. It was stuck during our visit.
The channel also feeds the cascading waterfall.
Time for a break and a well deserved cold one, on Plaza de San Roque.
The Church of San Roque built in 1502.
The Church's interior.
View to the North as seen from Plaza San Roque.
On the way back to the boat we visit Cenobio de Valerón, one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Canary Islands. Natives built the site into the high and steep slopes of Montaña del Gallego formed by volcanic activity 2.4 million years ago.
On the way up to the site we encounter a few dwellings occupied by families that protected the "Cenobio".
Interior of the dwelling.
Explanation of the functionality of the dwelling. You can zoom-in if interested.
A second dwelling on our way up to the "Cenobio".
Historians in the 18 and 19 century had the idea that it was a monastery or convent where the harimagüadas, who were high priestesses, would have lived, hence the name "Cenobio" or monastery. The anthropologist René Verneau visited the site at the end of the 19" century. He describes it and casts doubt on the idea that it was a monastery.
The small caves grouped together were silos where barley and wheat were stored. Marks where doors were fitted to close off the silos can still be seen as well as remains of the mortar used to seal them. The grain store was located high on the valley wall, hidden away and practically inaccessible before the current road and entrance was built. This position offered good defence against raids by neighbouring villagers and pirate attacks, as a food store such as this was a prime target.
The site offers a beautiful view over the Valerón ravine with Las Palmas in the far distance, and the new carretera brings us back to the boat in no time.

Thank you for reading this story until the end. There is still more to see on this lovely island and also the date for our departure towards Cabo Verde is approaching, but that is for our next blog.

Love and regards, Liza and Frits.