Explore Essaouira: From Paradise Valley to the Windy City

/ Morocco / By

Welcome back dear friends. In the previous blog we explored “Little Marrakesh”, a town East of Agadir. Now we are headed North, via “Paradise Valley” towards Essaouira, also called “Windy City”.

Paradise valley, known locally as “Wadi al-Jannah”, is a swimming destination in natural pools fed by Oued Ankrim (river) flowing in a valley of the Atlas Mountains.

Along the picturesque winding road at the bottom of the valley you will find "café's" where you can have a drink with your feet (or more) in the water. It is July so there is not much water AND it is tourist season...............
........and when we finally arrive at the location where all tourists are lured to, we did not exactly find paradise. Too touristy, overcrowded and murky water.
Our guests didn't seem to mind though.
However with 20 years of camping experience in the Middle East we know where to find clean water. Cristal clear water!! Only a few 100 meters upstream from the tourist spot we found our own little paradise, shaded by bamboo and reed. There was even a small spring where the locals came to fill their water bottles. (and so did we).
A quick lunch, omelet with bread and fresh orange juice, before continuing to Essaouira.

Archaeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered against the strong Northerly winds by the island of Mogador, making it one of the best anchorages along the Moroccan coast. It was occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans, Portugese and the French.

The well protected port of Essaouira with Mogador island to the South.

The medina of Essaouira was built during the mid-eighteenth century by the Alaouite Sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdullah, known as King Mohammed III, who tried to reorient his kingdom toward the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, choosing Essaouira as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point to Marrakesh. The other was to cut off trade from Agadir in the south, which had been favouring a political rival of his, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira.

Present day Essaouira is Morocco’s main fishing port due to the favourable conditions created by the Southbound Canary current.

The bustling fishing port. The characteristic blue wooden fishing vessels are still being build today.
Fish cleaners and fish sellers against a decor of fishing nets and the harbour scala.
Fish is cleaned on the spot and..........
...........the guts are fed to the seagulls that receive and abundance of food, with the excess left to rot........
........resulting in an oppressive stench of rotting fish mixed with bird poo.
These oysters are the freshest and cheapest you can possibly find in Morocco but the odeurs and lack of hygiene prevent us from eating the delicacy.
View from the harbour towards the medieval city.
We understand now why Essaouira is called "windy city" and with our noses in the stiff breeze the stink was quickly forgotten.
The ruins of Portugese built Castelo Real de Mogador in the distance.
Leaving the harbour through Bab Al Marsa.
Looking back towards Bab Al Marsa with kids swimming in surprisingly clean water outside the port.
Looking towards the medina.
Place Moulay Hassan between the harbour and the medina. Moulay Hassan is the Crown Prince of Morocco. He is the elder child of King Mohammed VI, the current ruler, and Princess Lalla Salma.
Inside the medina with the rampart/seawall to the left.
Gun Gallery on top of the sea wall.
Many of the guns were made by Adrianus Crans (1744) in The Hague, Netherlands. These low quality gus were initially made for the East Indian Company (VOC).

A lutier, building (and playing) traditional guembri, also called gnawa bass or moroccan sintir.

Time for coffee. 100% Arabica!

Street musicians. The “cymbals” in the hands of the guy in the green and red costume are “Qraqebs”.

Creating a wooden table with wooden inlays, all by hand.
A finished table. Think about the carpenters' skill and the amount of man-hours required to create this marvel.
We are slowly meandering towards the exit of the medina, soaking up the colours and atmosphere and gazing at the minaret of the Kasbah Mosque.
On our way back towards Agadir we had to climb one of the sand dunes along the coast.

This concludes our 7 weeks stay in Morocco and we have extensively traveled the country. We simply love Morocco, its helpful people, the rich culture and the exotic food. Knowledge of basic French brings you anywhere in the countryside and many Moroccans in the cities speak English so the language barrier is low. Also, we never felt threatened or unsafe. If you like what you have read on our blog then there is no reason not to visit.

We are preparing our boat to cross towards the Canary islands, but that is for the next blog.

Thank you for reading our stories. Liza and Frits.