Hopping from Lanzarote via Fuerteventura to Las Palmas.

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Hello friends, welcome back. In the previous blog we explored the island of Lanzarote and had to say goodbye to our nephew and his girlfriend. Tomorrow Frits’s youngest brother arrives with family and we have some more adventures in stock, so read on.

SV TWO B, our floating home, safely docked in the beautiful marina of Arrecife, ready to receive our next guests.
On the roundabout in the acces road to the marina stands this sculpture; "Fisherman with Marlin", an ode to Ernest Hemingway's novel: "The old man and the sea", inspired by a sailor born in Charco de San Ginés harbour, just a few metres from here.
Charco de San Ginés harbour today, surrounded by a promenade, fishermen's houses, shops and restaurants. Fishermen keep their boat in this tidal lagoon that dries out at low water.
We visit Castillo de San Gabriel, a small defence fortress on a tiny islet just off the coast. This stone structure was built after the wooden fortress was destroyed by pirates in 1586.
Exploring with family is always more satisfying. After WWII the gun (1 of 2) in the background was relocated for preservation from the Bateria del Rio, North of Mirador del Rio, that used to protect the strait between Lanzarote and La Graciosa. (see previous blog).
Unfortunately the displays inside the fort are all in Spanish. Pictured here is the outfit, including face mask, of "Los Buches de Arrecife", known for performing during festivities. "Buches" refers to inflated animal bladders that they use as playful props. You can compare them with "Los Diabletes de Teguise" (see previous post) and their antics are "mischievous" but funny.
The original causeway with drawbridge, connecting the fort to the main land. San Ginés Church and a few volcano's in the background.
San Ginés Church, rebuilt in stone after the original small chapel was flooded in 1660.
The Churches' colorful interior.
This monument was build to commemorate all seamen lost at sea and specifically 7 fishermen who were brutally attacked and murdered when their boat was operating near the African coast in 1978. The incident occured during a period of increased instability after Spain withdrew from the Western Sahara.
On Aug 7 we checked out from Arrecife and sailed South towards Gran Tarajal on the neighbouring island of Fuerteventura.
It was a lovely daysail on a broad reach under spinnaker and calm seas. Each of our guests took turn at the helm. It was the first time for all of them, and in perfect conditions. Ilse's father had been master on ocean going ships and his favourite time on board was during the morning watch. She could now identify with how he must have felt back then.
Gran Tarajal is an ordinary local town, not a resort town, and it feels very authentic and not touristy at all. The harbour was a hive of activity in the first half of 1900 but gradually declined when shipping and transport companies moved elsewhere. Tourism bypassed the town because the beach has black sand while different parts of the island have huge stretches of white sand. It is very laid back. The harbour master holds office in a container, not a flashy office with air-con. The port is not fenced off and for a restaurant you need to go down town.
Well maintained fishing boats in a corner of the harbour.
One of the statues along the boulevard, with the black beach in the background.
Upon leave the following morning, the harbour master was nowhere to be found and also didn't answer his phone. The fishermen pointed us to his usual hangout where we found him so we could pay the harbour dues. It was only a short daysail to Morro Jable, where we would anchor for the rest of the day and for one night before crossing to Las Palmas.
Morro Jable's Lighthouse, nicknamed "the Beam" stands proud on the corner of Punta de Matorral. With 59 meters tall, it is the highest lighthouse in the Canaries and its beam is visible 20 miles out.
With TWO B safely anchored in front of Morro Jable and a gentle surf on the beach, we lowered the dinghy and rowed ashore. Usually it is only 2 of us in the dinghy but now there were six, so the small tender was much heavier and sat deeper. Just a few meters before touching the beach a (rather) small wave managed to roll into the dinghy, not much, but enough to make all of us wet from the waist down. The bags on the floor got soaked. Luckily there were fresh water showers on the beach to rinse off the salt. All phones were still working!!
Morro Jable is one of the main tourist towns on the island and more for people who want to relax rather than party. The beautiful beach is calm and not very suitable for water-sports like windsurfing because it is sheltered from the trades. That's why we anchored here for the night.
Originally a small fishing village it still keeps a laid-back, local feel compared to more built-up areas. This beautiful monument is a nice reminder of the towns origin's.
The following morning we weighed anchor and set sail for the 70 Nm to Las Palmas on the main island of Gran Canaria. The weather was very kind to us, as expected in August, and with the wind aft of the beam we arrived in the marina before the office closed for the day.
Las Palmas was founded in 1478 after the Spanish conquest and is the de facto capital of the Canary Islands. The historic town center "Vegueta" is now a UNESCO heritage site where you can find some beautifully well preserved historical buildings and plaza's.
Casa de Colon in Vegueta, the former governor's residence and visited by Columbus in 1492 on his first trip to the America's when he anchored in the port of Las Palmas to repair the rudder of his ship "Pinta".

Not surprisingly, the museum is mostly about Columbus’ voyages, but we have seen that already when we visited Portugal and Spain. We even boarded a replica of the Pinta. For us more interesting were the examples of pre-Columbian artefacts imported (looted) from the coastal villages of Ecuador. The mask pictured above was one of the highlights.

The Cathedral of Santa Anna was commenced in 1500 and it took 70 years to complete.
The interior of the church with three naves. A services was ongoing when we took the photo.
View over Plaza Santa Ana from the church's roof. The building with the red roof is the Bishop's palace. The road on the far left of the photo runs through the Guiniguada Ravine where the first battles took place between the Spanish conquistadores and the aboriginal people. The large building on top of the hill is a military hospital.
The "Dogs of plaza de Santa Ana", eight of them, are installed around 1895 and their exact origins remain a mystery. Everybody seems to love them and everybody makes a photo of them.
The dogs even appear as the logo of Tropical beer, a nice hoppy lager brewed in Las Palmas.
Plaza del Espiritu Santo.
Fuente is car-free so the bars and restaurants have tables outside, which is typical for the Mediterranean.
Construction of the Conventual Church of San Antonio de Padua began in 1633. It is known for its fresco's but unfortunately it was closed at the time of our passing.
The following day we drove to the center of Gran Canaria to go hiking in Los Mateles Nature Reserve with stunning views down to the ocean.
La Caldera de Los Marteles can be seen from this slope and is less than 1,000,000 years old. This formation is approximately 80m deep and 550 m across.
We followed the waterfall trail at the bottom of Cernicalos Ravine in Easterly direction........
The Gran Canaria giant lizard can grow up to 80 cm in length, although this one was about half that size.
........and if you prevail in the heat then this is the reward.
Re-filling the water bottles for the return.
A local vendor had set up his stall at the trailhead where he sold a lot of yummy locally made goodies. We bought a cake, cookies, jam, molasses, almond butter, honey and rum, putting a big smile on their faces.
The next day we drive Westward from Las Palmas with the first stop in Arucas. Pictured is the town hall and Plaza de la Constitution, formerly known as Plaza de los Gansos ("Geese Square"), because it was the meeting point of unemployed people who were looking for a job.
Arucas is known for the Church of San Juan Bautista, often nicknamed a cathedral because of its appearance, even though it's not. Built between 1909 and 1977 entirely from local volcanic stone, giving it a dark bluish tone.
The South Facade with the main tower.
A beautiful wooden sculpture of the deceased Christ.
As the name suggests the church is dedicated to John the Babtist. The stained-glass windows show his execution with Salome presenting his severed head.
Street view with rectory to the left.

The water supply in Arucas, as well as in the rest of the Canary Islands, was via watercourses in ravines, natural springs and channels.  Due to increasing population and the introduction of health regulation, public fountains were built in the middle of the nineteenth century.

The fountain shown here, known as El Pilar, was opened in 1874 and people could collect water until the 1950s, when all houses received piped water.

In several locations slabs of stonework were arranged obliquely along the channels, that people could use to wash their clothing. These places became meeting places where news circulated and thus the washhouse was born.
Washhouse along the Carretera Arucas-Bañaderos.
We visited the Cueva Pintada Museum in Gáldar, that is built directly over an ancient pre-Hispanic settlement of the island's original inhabitants or Guanches.
The archaeological village consists of about 50, mostly circular, houses and caves.
One of the most important displays is the "Painted Cave". The meaning of the colours and patterns is not understood.
Interior of a dwelling with left and right a sleeping platform.
Examples of pottery found on site.
The lovely Iglesia de la Conception in Agaete, built in 1875 after the original Chappell was destroyed by fire. Note the use of red stone masonry, instead of the usual black / blueish volcanic stone.
A scenic drive from lush pine forests to near vertical ocean cliffs in Tamadaba Natural Park on the West side of the island.

Time flies when you’re having fun and we enjoyed a last dinner with family in the marina’s Sailor’s Bar, accompanied by a performance of local musicians. 

We will bring our family to the airport the following morning and stay behind in Las Palmas waiting for the end of the hurricane season and to prepare the boat for the Atlantic crossing. There is still a lot to see and do in the Canaries, but that is for the next story.

Thanks for reading our stories. Love and regards, Liza and Frits.

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